Good morning Vietnam!

!Beeeeeeeep! Horns everywhere, ! Beeeeeeeep!  no silence for a single moment, !Beeeeeeeep!  a constant stream of people, scooters, houses and !Beeeeeep! every few minute a bus or truck.
My ears hurted, but i just let it pass, made an effort not to get irritated. That was the only way I could still kind of normally cycle instead of getting angry. And that is exactly the way I managed to 'survive' Vietnam, actually pretty much enjoying all its 'dynamics'.

I was warned by several fellow cyclist; don't go to Vietnam, you will hate it! You'll go crazy; horns, noise and roadworks everywhere.. So I was prepared for the worst, but still, I had to experience myself.
When I crossed the border from Cambodia,  the difference was striking: from brown and dusty it changed into green and colourfull. Wherever I was, there were people, very friendly and very curious. Whenever I sat, I was immediately surrounded by local women (and their friends, neighbours, family..), who joined me at the tiny little plastic terrace chairs, staring at me from 2m distance, inspecting every piece of food or whatever I'd stalled out on the table, curious what this white lonely girl with hair on her teinted arms was eating.
But I liked the busstle and chaotic vibrance of the country, it was also happily and welcoming, especially since I entered when everybody was preparing for Tet, the Vietnamese lunar new year. For one thing, my cyclist friends where right, the Vietnamese for sure have a thing for noise; horns, karaoke, shouting..

During the first two weeks, I did not once paid for a night and never had to spent the evening alone. I was invited by local people, their friends, a church family, some monks, warmshowerhosts and friends I made on the road. Such nice, warm people! It makes me realize again that travelling is not about the places you visit, but about the people you meet.

Somewhere in the mountains, on a very bad, but so beautiful dirttrail, I rode my 10.000th km. Felt like nothing, but simultaneously I felt pretty strong! I could do this! So maybe indeed I am strong..
For some days I was accompanied by the Swiss Andre, an adventurous scooterrider. Together we 'mountain-biked' a beautiful trail through some really poor and authentic villages, where grandmothers walked for several hours with their baskets to pick coffee. This is a Vietnam that no other tourist ever see, but its the best part!

Somehow, I could not really part from Andre, since we both went in the same direction. So although he was a bit faster on his scooter, I kept on meeting him during almost my whole trip in Vietnam. Once every few days, we shared a room and our adventures. Nice to have the feeling to have a friend who is closeby and you can call or talk to whenever you want. Something I have really missed those last few months.

I headed further north along the former smugglers' routes of the Ho Chi Minh trail, trying to avoid the bad traffic and roadworks on the Highway 1.

On some detours from the main road, which apparently were considered to be border area, the border police didn't like some cyclists to get in, so I was stopped and told to turn around. Noooo! It would only take 500 m more to the turn I wanted to take. But it wouldn't be wise to neglect any police demands, so the only option was to cycle the same way back. I sneaked in another turn, and became a bit paranoia; every local who stopped or talk in his phone could be a potential spy. But I managed to 'escape' :)
Through the most beautiful mountains I rode, with only my second front gear working (thanks to an almost broken gearcable) resulting in some hard, sweaty climbs. This was perfect area for wildcamping, since steep slopes implied no villages so less people. However, also some flat area for my tent was difficult to find.

From the hot (40+ degrees) 18th century mountains, where people not even had toilets, but used the bushes (as I was directed to by grandmom who didn't let me camping but insisted I slept in granddad's bed), I drove to the luxurious coast with resorts and golfcourses; Never before I noticed the differences to be this big within such a short distance. Especially those times I spent at local peoples homes, made my realize what a great and special journey I was making. Made me realize how friendly people can be, having nothing but giving everything! Often I left with tears in my eyes (or cheecks).

Despite all warnings, I'm glad that I discovered myself that I actually liked this crazy country:
- where the women immediately took care of me, whenever I stept off my bike. Whether it was for a rest or at the market, they took me by the hand, pointed at the hairs on my arms and tssssst at my teinted arms and legs (they should be beautifully white, like theirs)
- whose though racing horning trucks, when driving backwards played the pussy melody of Madonna's Isla bonita
- where the youth waved to me with instead of their whole hand very cool with fingers in peace-sign
- where if you want to say No or deny something, you move your hand in a gesture that in other countries would mean something like 'maybe'
- that I discovered that instead of getting irritated, it's pretty nice to act like you don't care, and that it actually works
- where you never can or have to be alone...

After 6 weeks cycling in Vietnam, I reached Hanoi. Perfect timing, since the wheather deteriorated and for a week it was rainy and cold. Perfect wheather to sit inside and prepare myself for my new adventure: China! I got my Visa, read stories, made translations and a personal 'Point it' and met some other cyclist going more or less in the same direction (although somewhat later). But I'm still a bit hesitant, bit afraid of this Big Angry Beast that China seems to be from the outside.. On the other hand, what was I prepared for for Vietnam.. And how okay did it turned out to be! So good spirits up, and here we go.. :)

Why roadworks in Vietnam take so long..