Bam-bam-bam..!

Yeah, I could do it! 800 km in 6 days :). A different style of cycling then before, being on the road from 8 a.m. till sunset. But then, a new phase in my trip had indeed started; I had bought a tent and now I feel that I’ve really joined the ‘worldcyclistscene’ ;) Although some extra kgs, it feels really good to be flexible and selfsufficient.

I had a deadline for the first 800 km (Bangkok – Chiang Mai); 6 days until New Year. Which meant (for me) long days. Sometimes I longed for an easy day, but somehow I also found satisfaction in making such long days, and seeing that, despite the headwind (again...), I made quit some progress. Slowly I saw the landscape changing from rice fields (sometimes smogged because of all the ‘fertility’burnings), sugarcane-biofuel plantations (and accompanying trucks :( to more mountainous area.

Having reached CM, I headed back south again, since my parents would arrive there. Being less in a hurry, I could take the smaller roads through beautiful non-farang-visited areas. Dry, hilly areas, where the only income people could make was from some cows they had. However, in such areas people are the most friendly. I happily smiled and waved to everybody, having the feeling that I am so lucky I can experience this! Agreeing with one of my songs “Life is a journey, not a destination..”

Whenever I entered a colourful village market, I heard the buzzing of “farang, farang..”. (a sign to double the prices??). Everybody smiled happily to me and then continued rasping their papaya (salad), chitchatting with their neighbours.

On an early morning market visit, at 8.00 am sharp, the national hymn was played and everybody froze. I was surprised to see this happen, and it was so funny that I had a hard time to not burst out in laughter. After some minutes it was over, and everybody continued their normal way again.

Although not really common, I still tried to bargain. Sometimes this resulted in a kind of argument (especially with older women), in which half the market was taking part. And thanks to José, at least I never paid for a watermelon anymore ;)

In Ayuthaya, I was reunited with my parents, so nice to see them again after almost half a year! Together, we cycled for some days, before each went his own way again; they to Cambodia, I in this same direction, but on a somewhat slower pace.

Now, I’m spending my last days in Thailand the same way as I began here; at the beach. Only this time I pitched my tent J. I have spent almost 3 months in this nice and relaxing country, with people with a big, beautiful smile. After some 7500 km, I think I’m ready for some more ‘difficult’ countries; Cambodia and Laos; poorer, tougher, roads more wobbly, steeper, more authentic, ...??

Tropical dreams

Sawadeekah! I was wondering whether I would remember those few Thai words most important for a cyclist, from last year: "hello" "thank you" "water" "toilet" and "not spicy", and indeed I did :) So I could go on learning some other handy words: the numbers (so I can bargain, although the Thai apparently don't like this game) and "alone" (which in every country, the locals always ask, followed by "why are you not married or have a boyfriend" (you should ask the guys is my reply.. ;). After this, I gave up the effort to learn more Thai, since it is a tone language and trying to say "I don't eat chicken" could be understood as "I don't eat egg" (same word but different tone) and even the most simple dish I ordered (Pad Thai) is often not understood (only after repeating it many times in different tones, one person finally says "Oh, Pad Thai..." ad I think Yeah, that's what I said, not...??)
But with hand and feet, my Point It booklet, some Thai translations somebody wrote down and a big smile, I always manage to get what I needed (but not always what I intended :)

According to the books, the raining season should be over from November on. But literally, crossing the Thai border, it started raining. Still warm, but cloudy grey days, sometimes just drizzle, few heavy thunderstorms, but also some entire days with rain. However, the best thing you could actually do on such a day is cycling; once you are wet, there is nothing worse that can happen :)

Being tired of my 'race' through Malaysia, I planned to take some relaxing time in the south of Thailand. During three weeks I more or less parked my bike and enjoyed the beach, the relaxing atmosphere and the company of some really nice people; Finally chatting, enjoying and sharing again!
At Kho Lanta I joined Gerd on his scooter and together we explored the island, the local food and cosy beach bars. In Tonsai I enjoyed the relaxing, alternative climbers atmosphere and kayaked through beautiful seascapes.

At my last relaxing place, Koh Yao Noi, I visited some last year's friends, extending my stay every day with one day more, just because the laid back way of living in the hammocks of Nam Tuk was so addicting that I did not yet wanted to start cycling again (and why should I...?) Here, I also revived the thrill of climbing again, and with our Nam Tuk clan we explored the crags for several days.

My dream of the deserted tropical island came through when I kayaked with Oskar to Hong Island and stayed the night. Wow!! One of the best experiences ever, having our own private paradise, dancing in the moonlight on the beach!

After 3 relaxing weeks, the unrest to continue returned and I was ready to hit the road again. I met José, a spanish cyclist, also heading north. We rode together and chatted, had fun and shared beautiful moments. Through the most beautiful, stunning landscape of karsted limestone peaks we cycled towards Bangkok.

José introduced me to the possibility of sleeping in Buddhist temples. In the beginning, I was a bit hesitant, was this really possible? also for a woman? (as monks can not even touch women). But we were always welcomed and they seemed to already assume that we were looking for a place to sleep. Putting our mattress next to golden Buddha, sleeping in the serene atmosphere of a temple, is a special experience. Waking up by the 5/6 a.m. gong, hearing the beautiful chanting of the monks, put a big smile on my face, realizing where I am. 

Close to the border of Myanmar, we were forced to cross from west to east coast. The first real climb since several weeks made me sweat like hell.

But refusing to take a break (since getting started again on that steepsteep road is even harder), I make it and that feels good, oh yeah!! And again I realize that although hard working and 'suffering', cycling in the mountains I enjoy most!

Reaching the east coast, suddenly I'm facing the strong NE wind. Since I'm cycling more or less parallel to the railway, it is tempting to take the train. But no, that would be too easy...(I always can do that the next day...). So stubborn, I face my worst nightmare, pedaling for hours on end a slowly but steadily 16 km/h. And after 5 days (without taking any train :) I reach Bangkok. Who has ever said that cycling in this city is impossible? The contrary is true; you're way faster than cars or buses on a bicycle, able to crisscross through the traffic(jams). I enjoy this game :) (ignoring the fact that it probably is really unhealthy..)

Lying in the hammock on the rooftop terrace of the hostel, overlooking the river, I realize that I've reached my first destination of this trip: Bangkok. I always had in my head to go to Bangkok, more or less an obvious route from Indonesia on. From there, all options would be open, I could go anywhere. And here I was, in this destination, and what now?? Where should I head to, what would I choose as my next destination?

I have always said that I didn't want to stick too much to a certain plan, since I wanted to be flexible and change and join wherever and whoever I encountered. So I only made a short-term plan: that would be Chiang Mai, within one week, to celebrate New Year with Jan and Aoe. 

Thereafter, I will see what the new year will bring...

Desolate beach

Sunrise at a temple, loud Buddhist music adds to the mystic feeling